Stockholm: Five Meals Veg Warrants A Kilo of Steak

While we were in Stockholm, Marta and I stayed at what could best be described as a modern antique hotel in the residential neighbourhood of Vasastan.

It was a chic little place, housed in a building from the 1800s and came with complimentary breakfast each of the five mornings we had in Stockholm:

Lightly boiled egg with Heinz chili sauce, cucumbers, tomatoes, grapefruit, assorted Swedish bread; sour milk with muesli and dry fruit

Besides the creaky doors, the only other complaint I had was the lack of coffeemaker in the bedroom; as a result I had to change my morning routine quite a bit which meant arriving to breakfast NOT looking my chicest and alone while Marta was still asleep in order to fetch my absolutely mandatory java jolt…then sneaking another couple of mugs upstairs to the room

It was a rather nice suite, and even had a separate room with a desk where I was able to get some creative juices flowing in the mornings as Marta was still asleep and I was brainstorming for Emaho where we spend the day in pursuit of some fodder for my next food article.

***

And the result of those “juices” ended up being some unintentional vegetarian fare…that is for five meals in a row (and yes, that is counting breakfast from both Thursday and Friday). I am not against eating vegetarian in the slightest, but to those who know me I am quite the carnivore and it’s usually quite difficult for me to go for more than a few meals without my beloved filets, lobsters, or free-range chickens.

Our first stop for the day was to Rosendals Trädgård (Rosendal’s Garden) in the gorgeous Djurgården- which is practically a massive royal park in Central Stockholm. Rosendal’s Garden is an organic space in consisting of two shops, a cafe, and acres of orchards, plots, vineyards, and greenhouses growing everything from fat and fabulous carrots to haricots verts and an abundance of other marvelous produce.

Each day, the bounty is harvested and either sold at one of the shops or presented at the Cafe in some sort of innovative and fresh manner

Thanks to Amalia’s advising, Marta and I decided that the Rosendals Cafe would be a perfect place to start the day:

Adorable n’est-ce pas?

Marta: Focaccia with cucumber, fresh greens, yellow capsicum, marigold, and fresh herb cheese

Me: Farro, haricots verts, lettuce, marigold, chunks of fresh cheese, carrots, broccolini, zucchini topped with marigold pesto with rustic bread and butter

This vegetarian lunch was absolutely glorious and quite filling thanks to the generous serving of farro (and exquisite bread…Scandinavian butter is absolutely the best in the world!) And the marigold pesto was so unique and vibrant and a welcome addition to the recently harvested veggies.

Quite satisfied, we set out on our next trek of the day, several hours which would eventually lead us to Stockholm’s hipster district, Södermalm where we had a 6pm dinner date at the home of one of Marta’s hilarious and hospitable Swedish relatives

With several hours to go we took our time, stopped in Gamla Stan, and picked up a very essential re-energiser:

No, that isn’t fro-yo, it’s soft serve ice cream and it is a million times better (and two million times better if you’re in Finland)

***

I have no photos from the fantastic time we spent at Git (Marta’s mum’s cousin)’s home, but she cooked us and her daughters up quite an exquisite vegetarian feast consisting of:

Appetiser: Baked yellow capsicum filled with Västerbotten cheese

Entree: Lemon-marinated maize-steaks (it’s basically a filet made out of corn…popular amongst vegetarians in Sweden, anyone know what this is?) with roasted chanterelle mushrooms/carrots, side salad, and a yoghurt herb sauce for the maize-steaks

Dessert #1: A homemade wild berry pannacotta topped with brown sugar

Dessert #2: HEAVENLY dark chocolate cake with fresh cream.

Le happiness. The meat was not missed. And the company was hilarious; I love hanging out with my fellow Scandinavians, especially with some bubbly in hand

On that note, I feel a need in the near future to do a post regarding Scandinavian mannerisms and stereotypes 

***

So, what are we at now? Three veg meals in a row? Alright, just one more before the epic conclusion to this post (I’m skipping re-capping breakfast since it was the same just about ‘erry day)

Alors, on Friday afternoon, Marta and I headed back to Söder to meet up with my fellow Finn, Veera for lunch.

Of course I was so happy to see her that we ended up walking and talking around the entirety of Södermalm and Slussen before settling on a lunch spot, which…you guessed it…was a vegetarian restaurant named Chutney:

Me: One of the most epic Greek salads I have ever had- just look at that MOUND of feta! It also had hummus, tzatziki, herbs, and some kick ass garlic bread

Marta: Some sort of a coconut milk bean and cauliflower stew with rice; not as good…it was scooped out of a vat in front of us whereas I had to take a ticket and wait for my insalata to be composed

Veera: “Bond Gryta”- in other words some sort of a kidney bean stew…and that’s bread on the side. The best thing about Sweden and Finland is that most lunch places have unlimited bread and butter with the forks and knives

***

Alright, so here it is…five vegetarian meals down and what was for dinner on Friday?

My dear “Auntie” Jiyeon called to tell me she had made reservations for all of us (her, my uncle, my cousin, and Jiyeon’s brother and his friend visiting from Korea) at Vassa Eggen, a famous steakhouse here in Stockholm

Alors, since Marta and I were heading out after dinner to meet up with my childhood friend, Sara and her friends at the chic Hotel Nobis– we got a little dressed up. You know, nothing fancy- pencil skirt, heels, Louis V, and some Coco Mademoiselle

But first. Dinner.

Ida’s corn-fed grilled chicken with thyme

My uncle’s steaming pot of Moules Frites

ME: There you go, something like a kilo of Flank steak with roasted garlic and onions- absolutely beyond the valley of carnivorous glory. My muscles were singing an a capella tribute to this impeccable cut of Swedish steak

With a side of grilled vegetables and feta-ost

And three phenomenal dipping sauces to go alongside ze meat: Bearnaise, Red wine demi-glace, and parsley garlic butter

And somehow we all had room for dessert (as always):

Marta: Blueberry terrine with almond foam and blueberry ice cream

Ida: Belgian waffle with warm strawberries, vanilla ice cream, and mint

Jiyeon’s brother: Creme Brulee

Jiyeon and my uncle: Dark chocolate fondant with raspberry ice cream

Me: Apple crumble with hazelnuts and thyme ice cream. So so so so scrumptious, and who would have thought thyme ice cream would be such a tasty flavour, and accompaniment to the warm cinnamony stewed apple crumble

Apres le diner, Marta and I headed over to meet my friend, Sara and more Swedish peeps over at Hotel Nobis, Stockholm’s trendy new five-star hotel around the corner

We arrived a good forty minutes early, and thus chicly chillaxed in the outdoor lounge as a mellow continuation of our Friday night festivities; whilst lounging several taxis pulled up carrying a tour group of fifteen or so Chinese men (and about two women). One of the women approached us and asked if the other seats were taken to which we replied we were waiting for a couple of others. She then enthusiastically suggested we have a drink together and we thought, why the hell not…or at least they could have a drink and we can chat or be social or something of the like.

Anyways, the lady disappeared, left a few of the guys sitting there (who LUCKILY did not speak any English). This is where things got hilariously awkward, all the guys ordered India Pale Ales tried to communicate through overexcited hand gestures that we should order some as well

Me: No, no, no thanks. No drinks. No. We have friends coming. (lots of hand gestures indicating that we did NOT want any drinks)

Within the next few minutes more of the men from the tour group started arriving filling up the seats and it became a struggle to maintain our jurisdiction of saved seats while they stared at us whispered at each other and proceeded to order India Pale Ales and become intoxicated…rather fast (we’re talking less than two beers per dude). Once Marta and I realised that that woman wasn’t coming back and that this was some rather lame set-up attempt, we jumped to the next sofa as the men laughed and proceeded to fill up our now vacant spots and load up the table with bottles of Ale.

One of the more vulgar (and intoxicated) of the men then actually had the nerve to MOVE to our table with his bag of measly pine nuts and remaining sips of beer to just STARE at us. Je suis desolee, but who the hell do you think you are?

And that’s when my biyatchhhh face came on

I ignored him, put on both my blazer and nonchalant genetically Finnish facial expression and thank the lords of Aquavit, Sara and the homies arrived and re-invaded the lounge space kicking out Mr. Vulgar-drunk-off of one India Pale Ale back to his taxi…or wherever he went after that. Who cares, we were having too much fun being all Swedish and stuff. Oh and celebrating Christian (one of Sara’s friends)’ 24th birthday:

Yeah, I’m totally celebrating my next birthday at Hotel Nobis…with a brass monkey beverage

Have you ever been creeped on with a language barrier at a lounge/bar/place?

Ever been to Stockholm or Sweden?

BUTTER: Love it or hate it?

Meat-eaters: Do you ever feel an intense craving after a few meals sans the meat?

Non-meat eaters: Ever crave it?

Advertisements

12 thoughts on “Stockholm: Five Meals Veg Warrants A Kilo of Steak

  1. So much to comment on! Delicious eats as per usual and you defo picked the best dessert! That guy sounds like major creepo and perv! I tried to convince myself I wasnt a butter fan but it’s so freakin good on warm bread!…and in cake!! Btw are you a nut butter fan? Asking as I’ve never seen you talk about it!

    1. Oh Khushhhh, I also once tried to convince myself to be anti-butter, but my favourite food as a child was bread and butter- and what can I say, if it’s amazing quality there is nothing like some buttered hot bread or chapatis 😉 my favourite brand is Lurpak but I love butter at the right spreadable consistency! Yum! As for nut butters, yeah I like them and I’ll get a jar of Almond butter every once in a while and I love peanut butter-flavoured stuff (especially chocolate), but it’s not my “Lover” like so many bloggers out there haha.

  2. Ohhh my gosh I’m obsessed with that hanging lamp/light fixture in your hotel! Beautiful! I’m 1/4th Norwegian & some Swedish and I’ve always wanted to travel to Scandinavia so I’m jealous you’re there! I’m fully enjoying all the pictures! And all the delicious meals you’re having are making me want to go there even more! The farro dish…the greek salad, AHHH! Making me hungry!

    I love butter on warm nutty whole wheat bread or a baguette! But I don’t usually use it in cooking. I use olive oil or coconut oil!

    My sistas a veggie and she’s never craved meat! Although she did want to try some of the fish in our fish tacos the other night. When I tried going vegetarian, I craved deli turkey (I know weirdest thing ever to crave, right?) but lately deli turkey grosses me out. I would say I’m pretty much a pescetarian besides the fact that only sometimes I eat chicken.

    Love your blog!!

    1. Thanks for stopping by 🙂 Scandinavia is an amazing place, I sure hope you get to visit sometime soon! Oh and in regard to the food, it’s significantly improved since my childhood 😉

  3. beautiful market photos! and Yes, sometimes I do get a hankering for red meat! Very rarely, but damn when the craving strikes nothing else will suffice. Lovin your travel recaps 😀

  4. I never crave meat (can’t stand the taste/texture) but your breakfast/bread/dessert look amazing! And all the veg dishes, too. 🙂 Plus Sweden in general…your pics make me *really* want to visit!

  5. everything you ate today looks fabulous ! i think the best/funnest way to explore other cultures is through food. as for butter, love, but in the right time and place. don’t like it to overpower/be there when something else (ie: olive oil) should be. and i’m a non-meat eater because i don’t like it ! haven’t had the slightest desire for it in 10+ years.
    thanks for sharing your yum-o photos!

  6. Since I am mostly a vegetarian I think I would LOVE the places you are going! Everything looks divine…and Chutney sounds like a place I would love.

    I have to say that I am SO jealous of your trip. I want to be anywhere but here in LA right now, dealing with reality. Which often sucks. But on the plus side, at least I can eat again, right? 🙂

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s